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Urban Forestry
| Tree Care:
New Tree Planting |
First, take the time to research native trees and their
requirements, so that you plant the right tree in the right
space. Check the Tree Catalogue.
- Buy high-quality trees with visible trunk flares and
healthy roots that are not crushed, torn, twisted or circled
in the root ball.
- Check trunk wraps for hidden wounds, bad pruning cuts or
insect injuries.
- Trees with single trunk leaders provide the best
structure.
Second, observe a few pre-planting rules. Time your planting
for the dormant season in fall or early spring, so newly-planted
trees have an opportunity to establish root systems during the
prime growing season. Locate all local utility lines and pipes.
Follow basic planting guidelines to counteract the transplant
shock trees naturally suffer when they are relocated and
replanted:
- Broad, shallow planting holes are best, measured ideally
to three times the diameter of the root ball.
- Soil compaction impedes healthy root growth, but a broad
planting hole will turn the soil and encourage growth and
structure.
- The greatest root production will be in the top 12” of
soil.
- Plant only as deep as the trunk flare, that point where
the trunk flares out into roots.
- Too deep planting reduces oxygen circulation which
is vital to optimal root growth. ]
- Lift trees by the root ball, never by the trunk.
Make certain your tree is centered straight into the planting
hole, add soil back into the hole a couple inches at a time,
settling with water in between layers. It is best to avoid
fertilizer at planting, but mulching is recommended (see Mulch
Gulch). A mulch layer (preferably organic) should be only two to
four inches deep, avoiding the trunk base. Keep soil moist.
Water once a week, unless it rains or more frequently in hot
weather. |
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